A WINTER ELOPEMENT IN THE DOLOMITESKristina & Cristian
Kristina and Cristian picked the two most photographed places in the Dolomites and then went in winter, when there is nobody there to photograph them but me.
Lago di Braies and Passo Giau in summer are a scrum. Coaches, tripods, a queue for the rowing boats, a drone somewhere overhead. Go in the cold months and the same places empty out completely, the boats frozen in, the roads half shut, the whole postcard under a metre of snow with nobody in it but the two of them. That is the version worth having, and it is the one almost nobody sees.
It was cold in the way that stops being a number and becomes the thing you plan the whole day around. Short bursts outside, back to the car, hands on the heater, out again. The trade for the suffering is a good one: in winter you get these places to yourselves. No audience, no queue for the good spot. Just Kristina and Cristian, a lot of white silence, and, in a few frames, a dog that came along for it.
Lago di Braies
Lago di Braies is the one you have seen a thousand times, the wooden boathouse and the little red boats, except every version you have seen is green and full of people.


In deep winter the lake freezes hard enough to walk on, the boats are pulled up and iced over, and the boathouse that in summer has a queue outside it is shut up and empty. Kristina and Cristian had the whole place to themselves. There is another elopement at this lake on the site if you want to see the same water without the ice. This is what Braies looks like once the season turns and everyone goes home.




They walked out across the ice toward the far wall of the valley, which in the Dolomites means a couple of thousand feet of rock going straight up out of the snow. Two people look very small, very fast, against that. Then the sun came around the peak and turned the whole basin gold for about twenty minutes, and I did the only sensible thing, which is stop talking and work.
Passo Giau
Passo Giau is higher, wilder, and for half the year you cannot even drive up to it.



The pass tops out above two thousand metres, and in winter the road over it is often shut behind gates. When it is open in the cold it is one of the great empty places in the Alps, all jagged towers and open snowfields with the odd bent larch for scale. Kristina and Cristian walked it in wedding clothes, in a cold I could feel through two jackets. There is another elopement up here on the site from warmer months. This was the harder, colder, better version.
By late afternoon the light went long and pink across the towers, and the two of them were still out in it, walking, in no hurry to be warm. That is what an elopement gives you, in the end: no timetable, no room full of people checking their watches. You stay until you are done, and you are done when you decide you are.
If you have been looking at these two places and quietly deciding you want them without the crowds, a Dolomites winter elopement is how you get that. Bring a warmer coat than you think you need. I will be the one asking you to stand still for one more minute in the cold, and you will be glad you did.